The Minsok Hotel in Kaesong (a.k.a. the Folk Hotel) is the standard accommodation for foreign visitors to Korea’s ancient capital. It’s located in the old part of Kaesong, one of the few places in the DPRK not destroyed during the Korean War, since it was part of South Korea for the first part of the conflict and the allied forced had hoped to get it under control again (the other half of Kaesong was destroyed nonetheless). The Kaesong Folk Hotel was opened in 1989 and consists of about 20 hanok style courtyard houses along a small river – many date back to the Joson Dynasty (1392-1897) and offer their guests a traditional Korean experience, which means that people sleep on padded mats on the floor, heated by the traditional ondol system. By far the most beautiful of the three hotels I stayed at in North Korea (the other two being the *Yanggakdo Hotel* and the *Ryonggang Hot Spring House*), it was also the one where it was most evident that our freedom of movement was strictly limited. Although (or rather: because) the Minsok Hotel is located in a rather busy residential area, none of us was allowed to leave the premises. Years ago it was possible to go on a stroll when accompanied by the Korean guides, but that tiny little bit of freedom was taken away when an American tourist decided it was a good idea to sneak out alone at night…
In the morning we were allowed to step outside the hotel’s massive wooden gate to take a couple of photos of the street, but that was it. We tried everything to convince our guides to go on a walk with us, but they shut us down completely; politely, but firmly.
The most surreal moment of my stay in North Korea, way weirder than visiting the *Kumsusan Palace Of The Sun*, also happened at the Minsok Hotel: I was approaching the hotel’s gift shop, a small building near the gate, when I heard music from a big speaker on the ground. Western music. English text, written, produced and partly sung by a German. Imagine the trashiest europop possible, created in the 80s, stuff that still haunts you after more than 25 years and almost overshadowed a whole decade of legendary pop and rock songs. Only one band can come to mind, at least when you are from a German speaking or a Scandinavian country – Modern Talking! The song playing: Brother Louie. At first I thought it was Cheri, Cheri Lady since all Modern Talking songs kind of sound the same, but no, here I was… in Kaesong, North Korea, the Hermit Kingdom, the most secluded country in the world, where you never hear a single western tune except for half a Beatles song at the *Grand People’s Study House* in Pyongyang – and I had to listen to Brother Louie by Modern Talking…
(Please *click here to get to Abandoned Kansai’s North Korea Special* and *here for a map about the tour at GoogleMaps*. If you don’t want to miss the latest article you can *follow Abandoned Kansai on Twitter* and *like this blog on Facebook* – and of course there is the *video channel on Youtube*…)
The restriction of movements is disappointing in the DPRK, and in one of my posts I discuss how it serves little purpose other than frustration on the part of Westerners and criticism towards the DPRK government. Have a few DPRK post on my blog http://dalocollis.com/ if you wish to take a look.
I have enjoyed your photos of the Folk Hotel, which I agree is the place to stay…beautiful and historical. Also, very much appreciated the history behind is as well. Well done!
Hey Randall,
Thanks for the link – I am well aware of your blog and I epecially enjoy the sunset and night shots you took! Sadly I have barely enough time to answer comments people leave on my blog, so I barely ever comment myself. (Or do enhancing post-production on my photos… :()
Having been there yourself you know how small the rooms in the Minsok Hotel were, in addition to that we arrived too late to take photos in the evening and the morning was quite overcast – so thanks for your kind words, I guess I made the best of the situation. 🙂
Cheers! I should have risen early for photos…but the floor was pretty comfortable 🙂 Keep up the fine work!
I made the same mistake, Randall! Luckily I was forced out of bed for the *Fun Run* on May 1st, but all the other days I slept as long as possible… I am sure seeing the sunrises in Kaesong and Nampo would have been nice, too!
following you now on Twitter as @TheanneCrossett 🙂
Thanks a lot, Theanne, much appreciated!
Everybody knows that Dieter Bohlen is a living disease, but reading your post it seems that he really is one of most evil – and most enduring – plagues of the planet. 🙂
I really couldn’t believe it – but I had the presence of mind to take a quick video to have proof. Sadly I won’t be able to upload it to Youtube without risking my channel…